ETHICAL COMPLETE LIST OF INGREDIENTS IN OUR PERFUMES
We certify that our fragrances are produced exclusively with natural essential oils and absolutes as stated in the international norm ISO 9235.1997 (Aromatic Natural Raw Materials – Definition – Vocabulary).
For perfumery products, we use NOT denaturated 96° alcohol.
ECLIP of “La Via del Profumo”
The Aromatic natural raw materials vocabulary given by ISO 9235 standard can be purchased on the ISO site
Our proof of purchase of the ISO 9235 guarantees to our customers that we know the ISO standard
WHAT I USE IN MY PERFUMES
Absolute as defined by ISO 9235
Animal Extracts and tinctures: (Civet, Castoreum, Hyraceum, Ambergris, Honey bee).
Concrete: as defined by ISO 9235
Essential oils: as defined by ISO 9235
Extracts: as defined by ISO 9235
Propylene Glycol (PG) (in my cocoa extract only)
Resinoids: as defined by ISO 9235
Tinctures: as defined by ISO 9235
WHAT I DO NOT USE IN MY PERFUMES
Aroma chemicals from chemical synthesis of petroleum derivatives
Aroma chemicals from chemical synthesis of natural raw materials
Natural molecules (Isolates) from biotechnology 1
Natural molecules isolates obtained from essential oils 1
Oil Mineral (paraffin)
Preservatives (natural) ex. wheat germ oil
Preservatives (synthetic) ex. vitamin C
Wax from bees (for solid perfumes)
Wax from petroleum (for solid perfumes)
Definition of the products listed on ECLIP
Absolute: extracted with ethanol from concrete or resinoids. Ethanol is then removed.
Alcohol natural: obtained from natural raw material source (grain, corn, cane) by fermentation then distillation.
Alcohol synthetic: synthetic ethanol is obtained by mixing ethylene (gas obtained from petroleum or fossil gases) with steam at a temperature of 300° Celsius.
Animal extracts and tinctures: obtained by treating animal raw material with ethanol. To obtain the Extract the solvent is removed (e.g. Civet, Castoreum, Hyraceum, Ambergris, Honey bee).
Aroma chemicals from chemical synthesis of petroleum derivatives.
Aroma chemicals from natural raw materials (acetate vetyveryle, acetate cedryle ecc…): Single molecules obtained from chemical reaction of natural raw materials with acids to obtain acetates, cinnamates, brassylates etc.
Antioxidants (natural) e.g. wheat germ oil
Antioxidants (synthetic) e.g. vitamin C or E
Concrete: obtained from botanical raw material usually extracted with solvent (hexane, supercritical CO2) then the solvent is removed.
Denaturant: in perfumery, the combination of 2 chemical products is used to render it improper to human consumption. In Europe, the chemicals used for denaturation are either Terbutyl alcohol (class A) or Di Ethyl Phthalate, the mother of all Phthalates (class B), in combination with Bitrex.
Essential oils: obtained by steam distillation of natural raw material or cold press in the case of citruses.
Essential oils which significantly change in composition (folded essential oils, fractioned essential oils, x-less essential oil, molecular distillation). materials which have been eliminated reduced by re-distillation
Extracts: obtained by treating natural raw material with volatile solvent which is then removed or non-volatile solvent that is not removed at the end.
Natural molecules (So-called) or Isolates, from biotechnology obtained from microbiological synthesis. This is the new gold mine of the flavour and fragrance industry. The problem with these products is the secrecy that producers keep on the origin material with the excuse of patent propriety and confidentiality, and the undisclosed use of patented GMO bacteria.
Natural molecules (isolates) obtained from essential oils by distillation. Mostly obtained from fractional distillation of natural essential oils.
GMO ingredients any ingredient genetically modified or obtained from genetically modified raw material or obtained through the use of genetically modified microorganisms.
Mineral oil (paraffin) derived from petroleum. obtained from crude distillation of the same.
Vegetable oils (jojoba, almond, from natural source obtained from cold pression without solvents
Preservatives (natural) used to prevent the deterioration by oxidation, ex. wheat germ oil
Preservatives (synthetic) used to prevent deterioration by oxidation, ex. vitamin C
PG and DPG (Propylene Glycol, Dipropylen Glicole) synthetic solvent from petroleum used to obtain extracts from natural raw materials: PG is used mainly to obtain cocoa extract: the PG is NOT removed from the extract when used in the perfume.
Resinoids: obtained from dry botanical raw material extracted usually with ethanol, that is then removed.
Tinctures: obtained from ethanol maceration of raw material (also called infusion in perfumery); the exhausted raw material is filtered off.
Wax from bees (in solid perfumes)
Wax from petroleum (in solid perfumes)
In my fragrances might be naturally present the 16 so-called “natural allergens” contained in essential oils, they are:
- cinnamic alcohol
- hexyl cinnamal
- anisic alcohol
- benzyl cinnamate
- d- limonene
- evernia prunastri extract
The presence of ingredients from animal origin is easily verified for each perfume. at the bottom of the product page of each fragrance.
Our fragrances 100% botanical are marked as “ VEGAN”.
Those that contain products of animal origin are marked as “NON-VEGAN”.
1) Natural isolates are controversial because they lately are produced through genetically engineered bacterias, from undisclosed raw materials, but they are certified by the industry as natural and organic. My nose tells me that they are just like synthetics.
Ethically they are unacceptable because you cannot inform your customers either about the nature of the bacteria or about the raw material used to produce them.