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Correcting commercial fragrances with animal pheromones

pheromone_research_kit

The kit of the practical Phero-researcher

From a research made with Basenoters with Hyraceum, Castoreum., Civet musk and Honey bee’s wax

Eule:

Bal a Versailles –  This scent defies classification for me.  Powdery, musky, animalic, yes.  But as far as naming notes?  No.  I can’t do that.  Hyraceum turned it into an abstract work of art.  Throughout its development, everything from sweet to salty to leathery, the hyraceum added another interesting facet, one that was more distinctly sexy.  What’s more, I noticed that “floralizing” effect that Eule experienced with Kouros.  There was an increase in the sweet florals at the beginning.  I recommend this combination.  Read more

Pyramids, lies and mythos of Modern Perfumery

MY-HOUSE-IN-LEFKE-2
From my house in lefke.

If you believe that olfactory pyramids published by the industry are meant to give you information about the ingredients or about the smell of a perfume you are really ingenuous.

Pyramids are but a marketing tool used to persuade you into buying frags.

If you believe that the ingredients listed in the pyramids are in the fragrances you just missed the point. Pyramids are to make you dream a of a wonderful world where perfumes are made with real musk, real amber and real rose…

If it is written “Lavender”, it does is not meant the extract of lavender flowers, it means “lavender note” such as the one you find in dish wash soap. It smells nothing like lavender but it is, let us say, “legal lavender” because if it is not written “Lavender essential oil”, it is a “legal lye”. Read more

Thoughts from Timbuktu – fixatives

Our customs change as generations pass but the words of our language remain, some of them taking a different meaning or even becoming misleading.

A century ago perfumes were largely used on handkerchiefs, scarves and gloves rather than on the skin as they are today.
There is a big difference between thinking about “the perfume is my dress” and “the perfume is myself”.
“The perfume that is myself” is worn on the skin and becomes part of one’s body, while “the perfume that dresses me” is worn on the clothes that dress us.

The animal pheromones originally used in perfumery are designed by nature to be long lasting. They are territorial sexual pheromones that male animals leaves on a territory in order to draw a boundary for other males and at the same time seduce females of their specie. Read more

The natural perfumery trend (part two)

NICHE PERFUMERY

personalized-perfume

Not many years ago there were just 3 official types of perfumery, Vintage, mainstream and Niche perfumery, such as Creed or Lutens.

The last 20 years have witnessed not only the  birth and growth of independent natural perfumers but also the of “New Niche” perfumers,  like Ormonde Jane, Andy Tauer,  Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, etc… ,  who steadily won recognition and reached a level of success superior to that of natural perfumers by proposing a return to the origins of modern perfumery, where the artistry of fragrance resided into the clash or complementarity of synthetics with naturals.
Their success in the niche market has been due to the fact that they were offering  what had totally disappeared from mainstream perfumery and was disappearing from “Old Niche”, creativity, experimentation, new ideas…

All this was happening while mainstream and old niche perfumery were  eliminating naturals not only from their new products but also from their famous classics, reformulating them. Read more