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Subliminal dose

Subliminal dose

subliminal message - Subliminal dose

In a perfume, the ingredients that are not smelled are more important than the ones that are smelled.

I once had a customer who loved my perfumes but he could not stand any fragrance containing Rose. Even in those where it was present in such a small proportion that no one could smell it, he would say “there is rose”. I think that he had been traumatized during childhood, either by a nasty aunt wearing rose perfume of by a painful experience in a rose garden.

natural perfume milano 290x300 - Subliminal dose

My last fragrance “Milano Caffé” illustrates very well the “subliminal dose” concept

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Philosophy of Perfume (part 1): Bases for a revolution

PerfumeMaster pyramid - Philosophy of Perfume (part 1): Bases for a revolution

A philosopher is always a revolutionary because he aims at discovering truth and he does so by uncovering and denouncing falsehood.

Philosophy sets  the basics of morals and ethics in whatever field it inquires, because when it reveals truth from falsehood, it reveals also the right from the wrong.
This is also the limits of philosophy,  any philosophy  is worth only the philosopher.

The first thing which is taught to the students who want to enter a Way, a profession, a trade or an art is its ethics and its philosophy.

Guerlain is reported to have said  to perfumery students: “Have simple ideas, work them scrupulously, never cheat on the quality and make good products”.

He said “have simple ideas”, meaning that perfumers should work on simple ideas, because simple ideas are clear and having a clear idea of what one wants to do is indispensable to reach a result diligently and straight to the point. Complicated ideas are wrong because they give birth to no good results.
This sentence is Guerlain’s lesson to perfumers for being practical and have modesty.

“Work them scrupulously”, scrupulosity is the quality of who works meticulously, curing details, thoroughly and rigorously. Scrupulosity bestow to a person the quality of professionalism that belong only to those who do their work with utter seriousness.

The antonym of scrupulosity is carelessness. carelessness is wrong for anybody doing anything. Read more

The natural perfumery trend (part two)

NICHE PERFUMERY

personalized perfume 1030x687 - The natural perfumery trend (part two)

Not many years ago there were just 3 official types of perfumery, Vintage, mainstream and Niche perfumery, such as Creed or Lutens.

The last 20 years have witnessed not only the  birth and growth of independent natural perfumers but also the of “New Niche” perfumers,  like Ormonde Jane, Andy Tauer,  Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, etc… ,  who steadily won recognition and reached a level of success superior to that of natural perfumers by proposing a return to the origins of modern perfumery, where the artistry of fragrance resided into the clash or complementarity of synthetics with naturals.
Their success in the niche market has been due to the fact that they were offering  what had totally disappeared from mainstream perfumery and was disappearing from “Old Niche”, creativity, experimentation, new ideas…

All this was happening while mainstream and old niche perfumery were  eliminating naturals not only from their new products but also from their famous classics, reformulating them. Read more

Aromatherapy in Timbuktu: the earache

The earache is so widespread in Timbuktu that even I got it after a month. It is probably the desert wind that transports the poisoned dust street into people’s ears. Fortunately before it happened to me, I had a lot of practice with curing the population, so that I did not suffer from it for more that one day. If some day earache should happen to you without any medicines around, simply use warm olive oil inside the ear. This all Italian home remedy functions well, but for aromatherapy and extra efficacy I have always added one drop of lavender essential oil to it.

At the beginning in Timbuktu I continued to successfully cure earache with lavender and olive oil. But since I had brought little lavender with me and I had many patients, my supply ran out quickly, so I thought I had to find a substitute remedy. Read more

Aromatherapy in Timbuktu: ringworms and other

tigna1 - Aromatherapy in Timbuktu: ringworms and other

Ringworm is a disease that affects mostly children. It makes them suffer a lot and the itching is so strong that they scratch their head until it bleeds, sores get enlarged and the pain prevents them from sleeping. Ringworm makes children’s life miserable. Timbuktu hospitals’ or traditional therapists’ remedies are so expensive that most families cannot afford to buy them.
Traditional medicine in Timbuktu is no alternative to hospital for the health problem. The remedies are prepared and sold by the “tradithérapeutes” themselves. They depend entirely on their sale for their living and when they do not overprice them, they convince their patients that their case necessisates several remedies, quickly making a sum that amounts to several days of wages.
In Timbuktu people fear the doctors more than the disease. Read more

Aromatherapy in Timbuktu – Haemorrhoids and headache

vento di sabbia 2 - Aromatherapy in Timbuktu - Haemorrhoids and headache
The streets of Timbuktu in a day of sand wind

For a long time doctors have observed strange epidemics of non contagious diseases, for example rheumatism or ulcer. Cosmo–geological causes have been assumed –  that means solar winds or the fluctuations of terrestrial magnetic field. Two years ago in Timbuktu the major disturb I was asked to cure were haemorrhoids. A real epidemic disease. So when I returned this year I brought with me a big supply of a truly miraculous remedy for this problem – the essential oil of cypress.

Use it in its pure form of essential oil (although a bit hot) or diluted in olive oil (40 drops for 8 ml), it has to be used externally every time one goes to toilet. One should clean oneself with water instead of paper tissues, and then apply the product. Results are rapid and definitive. Read more

Aromatherapy in Timbuktu – The toothache

Ibrahim3 - Aromatherapy in Timbuktu - The toothache

One of the most frequent problems for which people of Timbuktu came to me was toothache.

In Timbuktu dentist is an unaffordable luxury for almost everyone. This fact accompanied by the loss of Islamic traditions, including cleaning teeth five times a day with a brush stick has caused an enormous problem of oral hygiene with dramatic cases of infections and great affliction amongst children and adults.

With aromatherapy the solution to the pain is rather simple – one drop of clove on caries has an immediate analgesic effect. Besides, frequent use of this essence can remove tooth infections and stop caries.

The problem which I stumbled upon was how to put the drop on the tooth when it’s on the upper part of the jaw and how to allow the patient to continue the treatment for next few days alone. Putting the head upside down is not practical and to treat every person in this way would take too much time. Read more

Olfactory education

tendone mano psd - Olfactory education

There is a clear parallel between music and perfumery, between olfactory and musical melodies, and we shall use this likeness in order to understand better the “why” and the “how” of olfactory education.

Just like music, perfumery is an art and even a major art, being entirely dedicated to one of our senses of perception, the sense of smell. Why is perfumery not taught at school just like music or drawing? Is perchance our sense of smell a minor sense of little importance?Do we perhaps love perfumes less than other civilizations?

School programs offer to all the basis of musical education, teaching the seven notes of our musical scale.

Olfactory education is no less important and to be able to name the scents of lavender and rose is no less important than to be able to name the blue and the red of the color spectrum.

The program that we designed is very simple and can be re-assumed in one phrase: “how to become a perfumer in 4 moves”. Read more