Subliminal dose

Subliminal dose

In a perfume, the ingredients that are not smelled are more important than the ones that are smelled.

I once had a customer who loved my perfumes but he could not stand any fragrance containing Rose. Even in those where it was present in such a small proportion that no one could smell it, he would say “there is rose”. I think that he had been traumatized during childhood, either by a nasty aunt wearing rose perfume of by a painful experience in a rose garden.

My last fragrance “Milano Caffé” illustrates very well the “subliminal dose” concept

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Why Luca Turin stopped his quarterly updates to The Guide?


It is always a pleasure to speak with Luca, of course I did not ask him directly why he and Tania had stopped but rather I expressed how much I missed his reviews.

He told me that I could not imagine how boring and deluding it was to smell 2000 perfumes a year, 1500 of which were totally inept.

I imagine he would love to write epic reviews about great fragrances, about perfumes that would inspire to him new parables and analogies, that would make him imagine new words and concepts, that would allow him use his great culture to describe the subtle and strange harmonies of scents. Instead of that he became tired of always having to find new “vacheries” (nastinesses) for products of fine perfumery barely worthy of being shampoo fragrances.

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Olfactory theories, Luca Turin speaks…

Two different olfactory theories. Do we smell the shapes or the vibrations of molecules?

Explained in a brilliant humoristic way by Luca Turin himself.

New essences from Australia


New essential oils are just arriving to me from Australia, Eco Sandalwood and Fire Tree.

Australian Sandalwood is precious to me as a substitute to Mysore Sandalwood. Not only a minor quantity is enough to have the top and heart note of Sandalwood in a fragrance, but it costs also a lot less than the Mysore.
It does not have the clean and very special drydown of the Mysore, but this is not very important because the delicate smell of the Mysore sandalwood dry down would be lost in most of the fragrances a perfumer can make, except if he were to use synthetic Santalol in heavy dose.
Australian Sandalwood is farmed, just like the Mysore, it’s availability is anyway limited but one may always buy a few hundred kilos if need be, while this would be very difficult with the Mysore. This is definitly an advantage for a natural perfumer who wants to be ready for big opportunities.

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